The Schönegg is perfectly sited on a plateau, so with the lift and tunnel you are just minutes away from the Sunnegga-Rothorn funicular (via another deep mountain tunnel) that takes skiers up to 2288m. Close also to the Bayard Sport ski rental where I hired my kit. Day hire is from €38.
A three-minute ride from Zermatt takes you to the Sunnegga station. It’s a perfect place for non-skiers to join friends for lunch at the self-service restaurant or grab an early morning coffee and watch the sun rise over the Matterhorn. For skiers, Sunnegga is the starting point for ascending to Blauherd and Rothorn. And it’s here that beginners will find their ski legs at the Wolli Park reached by a self-service shuttle. The park has three magic carpets (snow conveyors), two cord lifts (beginners’ lifts) and a range of play equipment for all ages.
As my schedule only allowed for a day’s skiing, we focused on the Sunnegga/Rothorn area. Using the gondola and chairlifts we flew up to the mighty Rothorn at 3,100m with its incredible views of the Matterhorn. And again a wonderful mountain restaurant – perfect for sunrise and sunset watching. Stop off at Blauherd along the way for a drink at the Blue Lounge – a vibrant terrace with music and a hip crowd. Most mountain restaurants close around 3.30 or 4pm in winter, so check your timings before you set out.
I hadn’t skied for a year but soon felt comfortable. The only difficulty was concentrating on my technique with the jaw-dropping views around me. Blue sky, compact snow, bright, bright sunshine. I was in heaven, and thanks to Lars’ patient instruction rapidly improved my turns and increased in confidence.
Restaurant Paradies in Findeln was our lunch stop. Cosy and welcoming with great service, the menu is hearty mountain food, from homemade lentil stew with sausage to ravioli and tagliatelle dishes. Desserts included fruitcake, mouse and hot chocolate cake.
We descended via runs 4, 1 and 3 – a speedy glide through the pines towards the town below. What an exhilarating day’s skiing… I was especially relieved to get down the mountain in one piece. Run 3 conveniently ends by the hip Hotel Cervo, an authentic chalet-turned luxury hotel and spa that attracts an international clientele for pre- and après-ski apéros.
In the words of Lou Reed – ‘a perfect day’ – and I still had time to look around the town. I discovered a fabulous cinema, the 70-seater Vernissage on Hofmattstrasse at the Backstage Hotel. The space is also a theatre, nightclub and art gallery and regularly shows documentaries about the Matterhorn, filmed by the owner – Heinz Julen’s – father. Julen is an hotelier and architect par excellence with a huge impact on Zermatt. His restaurant Chez Vrony is world-renowned and his most recent project, the Backstage boutique hotel is beautiful. This is where the idea for Zermatt Unplugged music festival was created. Paolo Nutini, Stephan Eicher, Michael Bolton and Nelly Furtado among others will be playing the festival between April 4-8 this year.
Non-skiers are well catered for in Zermatt. I visited the fascinating museum: a subterranean world under glass adjacent to the village church that depicts Zermatt’s history as a farming and climbing centre, complete with farm buildings. From prehistoric human remains to the rope from the tragic first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 by Edward Whymper and his teammates, it’s a fascinating exhibition.
Take a wander through the adjacent cemetery – you’ll see tombstones dedicated to international climbers who perished on the Matterhorn and other peaks. There’s also an English church, guided village tours, snowshoe tours, and an unforgettable helicopter flight over the Matterhorn with Zermatt Air, and spas-a-plenty in the top hotels. And of course retail therapy in abundance, from watch shops and jewellers to smart leisure gear.
There are more than 100 restaurants in Zermatt, from mountain hideaways to small stübli and Michelin-starred cuisine. I can certainly vouch for mountain eateries Chez Vrony and Restaurant Paradies, both offering superb traditional mountain food at Findeln, as well as Al Bosco at Rifelalp. Town-based recommendations include the authentic atmosphere at Pinte, which serves traditional fondue and raclette. Findlerhof, 1818 Eat & Drink, and Restaurant Whymper-Stube are also worth a reservation, as is the 2-Michelin-starred After Seven restaurant at the Backstage Hotel.
Grand Dame Victorian hotels such as the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof and the Mont Cervin Palace, as well as the more hipster Omnia, have renowned restaurants serving a selection of traditional and international cuisine. The Corbeau d’Or, helmed by 16-point Gault Millau Chef Alain Kuster is a must, as is Chez Heini, renowned for its homegrown lamb and convivial hospitality.
If you’re looking for Japanese cuisine, Hotel Albana Real’s ‘Fuji of Zermat’ restaurant will satisfy all yearnings. Equally the hotel’s Rua Thai menu is a smorgasbord of your favourite authentic Thai dishes, (my red curry with beef and pineapple was delicious) all prepared by a Bangkok chef.
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